Good customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual customer. Fit must be designed into the original pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Fit is the most important factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Watch videos that demonstrate the techniques you will use to design your patterns.The development of a garment comprises of different process. I'm often asked about how to use quarter scale patterns, and there's a lot of confusion about them. Return to Clothing Patterns 101 Home Page Making a Full Sleeve Using the Slash and Spread Technique.Making a Full Skirt Using the Slash and Spread Technique.Making a Yoke Seam by Pivoting the Bust Dart.Making a Princess Seam by Manipulating the Bodice Darts.How to Use Quarter Scale Patterns to Learn Pattern Drafting Techniques.Basic Pattern Drafting Techniques - Manipulating Darts and Slashing the Pattern.Just print the 2 pages, cut them out, and use them to trace and manipulate your darts, or to slash and spread copies of your pattern. Practicing with full-scale patterns is cumbersome, so we have provided a printable quarter scale pattern for your use. You'd be amazed at the ideas you'll come up with! Then think about how you can use them to achieve the styles you like. Go through the examples on the pages below to learn the basics of the pattern drafting skills. You'd also use this technique for a pleated skirt, but you spread the pieces differently. Your basic block is close fitting and, of course, you want a variety of shapes in your closet.įor a full skirt, for example, you'd draw lines along the length of your skirt, cut along the lines, then spread the resulting pieces to achieve a full hem. Slashing and spreading the pattern ADDS fullness. In fact, once you learn what you can do by manipulating darts and slashing your patterns, you'll come up with design ideas you'd never thought of!
If you want a pleated skirt with a yoke at the waist, you'd use both techniques - and this is very common.
Want a skirt with a yoke at the waist? Move the waist darts! (yes, really!) With these 2 basic pattern drafting techniques, you can achieve ANY shape you desire! "Slashing and Spreading" your pattern to add fullness in the sleeve, skirt, or anywhere that you don't want a fitted look. Manipulating darts, to move them where ever you want them or change them into attractive shaping seams I'm going to focus on the two most commonly used methods of drafting a pattern: While there are many, many pattern drafting techniques you can use in turning your basic block into a stunning fashion, there are a few basics that you'll use again and again. Pattern Drafting Techniques You'll Use Over and Over
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